Club Jordan questions

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Thad

Club Jordan questions

Post by Thad »

Hey Guys, got a few questions for you

Just picked up a club jordan right now it sounds like trash, but it was used and had the original heads... and even then they were in bad shape. I'm not worried, I know the CJ is a fine instrument.

What about using gut snares under the top head? That would kill snare/kick interference pretty well, right? It would just be a matter of finding an appropriately modifiable gut snare strain to fit the comb (which I havent even looked at yet)

What's the board on the side for? Is it for mounting toys or what? I seem to have enough attachments for cymblas and blocks and things to be fine, I hope this isnt a stupid question.

As for muting and dampening issues that have come up in other posts, has anyone tried using moongel damp pads (the little square stickies) they work on everything from snares to timpani, once I get my stuff together and put on new heads I'll see how they work.

Thanks for your help guys, I'm not much of a drum guy, more of classical percussion, but I couldn't pass this up. Too bad my first drum in years was one that requires a bit more tweaking than normal, but I'm sure that once I get rid of the stock heads they will already sound much better. And it looks amazing.

Cheers - Thad
Dinkus
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Post by Dinkus »

Hi Thad, i'm not sure how gut snares would work, it may be pretty interesting though. I personally don't have enough info about those snares but I think it might not give you the outcome your looking for but it's all worth a try to find the ultimate setup. The wood board is used for what ever you want in terms of playing, banging your sticks off of musically. Rim click on the side instead of on the rim of a kick drum. This way atleast Yamaha has set it up so that you won't damage your shell when you play off of it. Moongel works great for dampening the heads but I think the main problem is snare bleed and that will only help a little and possibly after some muffling techniques cause the snare to be over dampened. I use the stuff all the time for big toms and stuff and on bad skins can save you from going bonkers while tuning. Anyway let us know if you do attempt the gut snare how it worked out.

Dinkus
Thad

right on

Post by Thad »

Thanks Dinkus,

I think I might just either stick to the 8 inch snare or use a different snare altogether in my setup, forego the snare/bass in one unit. Outside of the bleed, I can't even get a solidly good snare sound out of the top head, which is my first problem before dealing with kick bleed. and baffling must be a pain to tinker with as you have to put the head back on before seeing if it works, kudos to you guys for taking the time and patience. Not worrying about getting a good snare sound, I can just focus on getting a good bass and tom sound out of the main drum, which I can do without baffling or anything. I'll tinker more perhaps when I get new heads, and therefore will fool with baffling with the old set of heads to see how well I can get it without damaging the better heads.

Thanks again, I'll let you know if I have a breakthrough,

Thad
famouswilly

gut snares

Post by famouswilly »

Hey Thad!

I'm building my cocktail set out of two 12 x 15" 1960's Ludwig marching drums that had gut snares originally. I thought about trying to preserve the gut snares that came with the drums, but the only thing I could come up with was leaving the snares on top of the head (ie flip the drum over and play the snare side). I didn't like that idea. You can't really make gut snares work on the snare fan--they aren't resilient enough to stick against the bottom head. the trick would be to make full length gut snares run across the inside of the top head. I can't see how to do that without damaging your shell right near the bearing edges. You could use heavy duty tape and tape a length underneath the top head, but they wouldn't be adjustable and would fall apart after a while. You sandwich them between the bearing edge and the head, but the head wouldn't seat properly and you might ruin your bearing edges. It might be possible to use to fan mechanisms across from each other on the drum and make it so that they each serve to hold an end of the gut snares up underneath the top head. You could still adjust them, although you'd need to turn two knobs. You'd have to be ready to drill an extra hole in your shell, though. If you want to try it and don't want to buy Yamaha's fan mechanism, you can take the muffling arm out of any cheap drum, pull the felt off, find a small bar to tie the gut to (like the bars that wire snares attach to) and solder the bar to the muffling arm.

Personally, I'd stick to the gut. After you change your heads, if you decide to build a baffle for your drum and figure out a design that works, please post it. Thanks!

Also, that side thing on your drum is for hitting with a stick. People use them for cascara rhythms, which drumset players usually play on the side of the floor tom. The thing is, that sometimes messes up the finish, although I've never had a problem on a plastic finished drum. The sound board lets you play that type of rhythm without damaging the drum itself. Personally, I'd rather Yamaha cut the price of the drum and not make that a standard feature. But then, I'm not buying one, either. When I was looking to buy a cocktail drum, the Club Jordans appealed to me but were prohibitively expensive. You guys are lucky to have found them used!

Good luck!

Will
famouswilly

oops

Post by famouswilly »

I said stick to the gut. I meant stick to the wire snare fan. D'oh.
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